Sunrise 初日の出

Watching the first sunrise is how people in Japan celebrate the beginning of the new year – praying for a healthy happy year and making wishes and resolutions. Many look for the best viewing spot for this Hatsuhi-node, which is as important as the visits to shrines and temples. The first ray of sunlight through the clear winter sky certainly gives hope for a good year ahead.

The new year's sun reflecting on Mt Fuji feels doubly lucky, which I get to do every year from the back hill of my parents’ house in Yokohama. Mt Fuji, Japan’s highest mountain (3,776m) is one of the “Three sacred mountains” along with Mt Tateyama and Mt Hakusan. Its deity is a female god of fire 木花開耶姫 (konohana-sakuya-bime), but the mountain was off-limit to women till 1800. Fuji is a dormant volcano and its last major activity was recorded in 1707. Japan's oldest anthology of poems Manyo-shu (7-8c) has a description of an eruption "...snow falling to settle the burning fire, and the burning fire melt the falling snow..." The name Fuji may have originated from the word fuji (immortal or eternity) used in the Tale of Taketori (10c), which describes a medicine of eternity being burnt at the summit of the highest mountain closest to the heaven. Fuji has inspired numerous artists and writers, including the famed Hokusai: 36 views of Fuji (c. 1830), which depicted everyday life of people with Fuji as a focal point. Many place names include Fuji, and “a Fuji view” increases value for real estate, hotels and tourist locations today.

Like Uluru in Australia and Tongariro in New Zealand, Fuji clearly is a cultural icon adored and respected by many. Over 200,000 climbers visit the mountain, many of them to receive the sunlight coming onto the mountain (御来光, goraiko, coming of the sacred light. Not on new year, as the season is limited to July-August). The mountain's environmental care in early days, however, was poor and lead to serious environmental degradation. Many reported their disappointment of finding rubbish on arrival to the summit at the dawn. This, however, is changing with efforts by many organisations, volunteers and government schemes, and Fuji is now on the tentative nomination list for the World Heritage (Cultural Heritage).Visitor responsibility has not been well implemented in Japan yet, but it is the essence of so-called “eco tourism”, and with the rising environmental awareness, the tourist and operator behaviour need to improve.

On the New Year’s night, dreaming of Fuji is believed to be the luckiest, followed by a dream of hawk or an eggplant. Its origin is uncertain but view of Fuji in the clear sky always feels lucky. I hope this view of Fuji too will bring you all a happy dream tonight and every night for the rest of the year.